Thursday 9 June 2011

Friday 20th May 2011 - A Day In Beauvais And Home


Another bright day and I was up early to water the plants for the last time and pack my rucksack before tidying up Liz's place to make it look as if I hadn't even been. Last minute checks with regards the switches in the fuse box, checking the water taps, plus shutting the windows and locking up, left me time to visit Au Gamin for a quick coffee and then the walk to Gare du Nord.

Once there, it was down into Passage de Maubeuge, under all the platforms, and then purchase my ticket from a ticket machine. Then it was a simple matter of going up the steps to platform 21 where my train to Beauvais was about to depart. It was a double-decked train and once more I sat in the upper deck taking in all the sights on my way.

I arrived in Beauvais in time for lunch at Le Relais d'Alsace, 16 rue Pierre Jacoby and I decided on the moules marinières followed by une tarte fine aux pommes all accompanied by un demi pichet de vin rosé - it was my last day and I was going to enjoy it.

A visit to the gare routiére to confirm the bus times to the airport and the rest of the day was my own.

A wee daunder about the town centre was punctuated by wee rests on the terraces of various cafés, the choice of which was depending on which way the sun was shining more than anything else.

The Interior of Beauvais Cathedral

Statue to the heroine Jeanne Hachette
The day passed quickly and soon it was time for the bus to the airport. Once again it was the Ligne 12 - the local bus - and although I was going to be a wee bit early, there was still time to sit out in the sun rather than inside the terminal building itself.

Beauvais is not my favourite airport and the less time spent inside the better, but soon it was time to say "au revoir!" to France once again and the flight back was uneventful; unless a French stag party going to Glasgow is of any note - but they weren't too boisterous. Landing in Prestwick to 10 degrees was a shock to the system however!!!!.

If you care to view my photo gallery of this trip click here then click the slideshow button.

Thursday 2 June 2011

Thursday 19th May 2011 - Montmartre, Les Halles de la Chapelle And Le Jardin de la Tuileries...... Again!

The usual start to the day in Au Gamin was followed by another vist to the Montmartre district but this time over towards the metro Abbesses and the Montmartre Cimitiére. The metro at Abbesses apparently is only one of three original art nouveau entrances designed by Hector Guimard.

One of only three original art nouveau metro entrances


Leaving the metro behind, I set off looking for the Moulin de la Galette. Upon finding it, after a fairly steep climb, I found out that it was in private ownership and a closer look was not possible. It appears that much renovation work is taking place which is undersatndable knowing that the mill was first built in 1622.


The Moulin de la Galette


A return to metro Abbesses was by way of Le Bateau-Lavoir where many famous artists lived and rented studios. The buildings around here then were so poorly built that they creaked and swayed in high winds. This reminded people of the washing boats on the Seine and hence the name - Le Bateau Lavoir (see ma French!!!).

Le Bateau Lavoir


Before descending into metro Abbesses, I popped in to L'Eglise de Saint Jean-de-Montmartre for a look around this interesting building. It is notable as it is the first example of reinforced cement in church construction. Completed in 1904, it was designed by architect Anatole de Baudot. The brick and ceramic tile-faced structure mixes Art Nouveau design with the structural qualities of reinforced concrete giving the church a feeling of lightness and transparency.

L'Eglise St Jean de Montmartre


Catching the metro once more, I went back to Chateau Rouge and set off walking along Rue Doudauville in search of Les Halles de la Chapelle - just off Rue de la Chapelle and near Max Dormay metro. (I know... I could have got the metro there but I wasn't sure of its exact location and I wanted a walk to explore the area better.) I was seeking out the market because Liz had said that it had just recently reopened having been refurbished and was also a good place for something to eat. It was still too early for lunch so I had a wander around the stalls before relaxing at a street café and watching the world go by.

Les Halles de la Chapelle


North African was the choice today and with the small restaurant opening at 1 o'clock, I returned to Les Halles and ordered a nice couscous with some mint tea. Very nice it was too and not too expensive.

I returned to Rue de la Chapelle and in a nice wee café on the corner of Rue Ordener had a glass of wine whilst deciding what to do that afternoon. It took me a while to make up my mind!!!!

Another afternoon relaxing in the sun once again in Le Jardin de la Tuileries was the result of all this cogitation and so I set off on the metro once again. What a life!!!!!

La Grande Allée


After a wee dozzzzzzze in the sun and it was back to Chateau Rouge once more. It can get awfully hot down in the metro and at rush hour with the crowds it can be uncomfortably so. So hot did I feel on the return journey that I had to get off at Gare du Nord just to cool down and then catch the next train.

Back at Rue Doudeauville it was a case of a shower and change of clothes before a wee daunder around past the Moulin Rouge and back before sitting down for a final wee drink in Au Gamin de Paris.

Got talking with a few folk, who by this time thought I was local, fortunately Erwan fae Bretagne could speak a little English so that helped the night move along. Soon,however, it was time for bed and bidding my new friends "Bon soirée!", I crossed the road for my last climb up those five flights. Thank God!!!

Wednesday 18th May 2011 - Cycling The Canal De St Martin And A Visit To The Cimitiére Pére de Lachaise

After a coffee in Au Gamin de Paris it was a search for a Velib station. I had forgotten to print off a map of all the the Velib station in this part of Paris before I had left home. Anyway, the first one that I found and tried was just off bvd Barbés - rue Marcadet, I think - but by the time I had worked out what to do at the terminal all the available bikes had been taken. I walked back to rue Doudeauville and decided to make my way to Gare du Nord. Turning into rue Léon, there was another Velib station - metres from Liz's place! - but it too was empty of bikes; similarly at Square Léon. I had walked on to virtuallly Gare du Nord itself when I discovered a very large station in rue Ambroise Paré just outside Hopital Laribiosiére. In a matter of minutes I had selected what looked a decent bike and successfully managed to enter all my details in the terminal and I was off!

In no time at all I was speeding along Bvd de la Chapelle in the direction of Stalingrad and it was there in Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad that I found myself going in the wrong direction. I had to negotiate my way through this problem by dismounting and walking back onto my correct route. In doing this, I discovered my mistake and made a mental note for the next time.

Continuing along Ave Jean Jaurés, I was soon on my way once again to my destination - Parc de la Villette. I had made a note of the time when I had collected my bike because it is only the first half hour that is free and there is an incremental charge each half hour thereafter. It was getting very close to that when, after losing the cycle path once again, that I found a Velib station adjacent to the Parc itself. With just a couple of minutes to spare, I printed off a receipt confirming this (and for future reference if need be).

Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie

The day was glorious and I spent an hour wandering about exploring this lovely futuristic Parc sitting astride the Canal de St Martin. Its two main attractions are the Cité de la Musique and the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie but not having the time to visit either, I was content to admire both from the outside.
The canal, especially created a beautiful focal point for all the many attractions.

Fountain outside the Cité de la Musique
The Canal de St Martin

I decided to explore the canal further and set off -this time by metro - back to Stalingrad. After a wee pression at a Bistro called Les Jaurés on the corner of Ave Jean Jaurés and Quai de la Loire, I set off walking along the canal towards Place de la République. It was a lovely, peaceful stroll passing many interesting buildings and taking in the pretty scenes scattered along both banks of the canal. The canal itself was constructed as a shortcut for shipping using the Seine. It cuts across a long loop in the river through central Paris and is still used today both for cargo boats and pleasure craft alike.

One of many interesting bridges crossing the canal
Tourists getting a close-up view of the canal

Art Nouveau overlooking the canal

Finishing off in Place de la République, I noticed a particularly busy boulangerie and decided that that was good enough for me also. So it was a lovely baguette and a bottle of water for lunch and the banks of the canal provided the perfect backdrop to enjoy it whilst watching the ducks and their little ducklings in the sun.

Quack! Quack!

Place de la République

Back to the Place de la République and the metro to Pére de Lachaise and the eponymous (that's a good word!!) Cimitiére where many of the great and the good of Paris are interred. From a previous visit I knew to avoid the touts selling maps of the Cimitiére as you can get a free map once inside. A change in the location to obtain this free map meant that initially I had to wander about and from memory locate the resting places of such as Oscar Wilde and Edith Piaf etc.. However, finally, after locating the administration offices, I got a copy of what was required - a map indicating the whereabouts of the resting places of some of the notable deceased residents of Paris.

The resting place of Edith Piaf
Many kisses cover Oscar's resting place!!!?!!
Gone Chopin be Bach in a Minuet!
It is amazing the number of people who were wandering around the many paths criss-crossing this graveyard. Then again peace and tranquility is something so hard to find in Paris and, on such a beautiful day, the Cimitiére, surprisingly, was a pleasant place to be.

A surprisingly deserted path in the Cimitiére
In one corner there are several memorials to the victims of war, especially both World Wars and they are a particularly poignant reminder of the suffering of many millions.

Buchenwald Memorial

Auschwitz Memorial

On a lighter note, on leaving I came across a mausoleum of a particular family whose name perhaps would evoke a bit of a smile in some of the many visitors - as can be seen in the photo below.

The interred obviously overstayed their welcome!!

Once outside the Cimitiére, I quickly located a Velib station and procured another bike only to find that it was useless. Returning it to a stand, printing a receipt and chosing another, I was soon on my way back to Rue Doudeauville. I was getting confident now!! My route went by way of Stalingrad once more and this time I had no problems (whit an expert!). I arrived at the station on Rue Léon with just over a minute to spare. The heat and my exertions made the five floor climb up to the my sister's apartment a struggle and I collapsed in a sweating heap in an armchair once through the door. It took me a while to recover!

The evening was finished off after a wash and change of clothes over in the Au Gamin de Paris - I was getting to be a local so ah wis!! The tables outside catch the evening sun and a view of the Sacre Coeur itself. A lovely end to quite a strenuous day.





Tuesday 24 May 2011

Tuesday 17th May 2011 - Montmartre And Les Jardin des Tuileries

After a coffee in Au Gamin, it was along to Chateau Rouge metro to buy a carnet and a metro plan before going along to Jules Joffrin metro and the Hotel de Ville for Le Bon Plan. This is a wee map with the piste cyclable (cycle paths) of Paris. Before leaving Scotland I had bought a day ticket to use the Velib system of bicycle hire in Paris. I intend to use this tomorrow to see how it works and explore a wee bit of Paris by bike. Well that is the plan!

Getting that organised was followed by the steep walk up to Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur. I was in need of oxygen by the time I arrived and the beautiful day was getting warmer and warmer.

The courtyard of the Montmartre Museum
A leisurely stroll followed through the streets of this very popular part of the city and its many beautiful sights. It is a place where tourists are ripped off left, right and centre - 5.60€ for a coffee - and it is virtually impossible to avoid these traps. Be Warned!!

The vineyard in the Montmartre

I started off walking down past the Museum of Montmartre to Le Lapin Agile and the vineyard of Clos Montmartre. Unfortunately the Fête des Vendanges is not until October but the vines themselves were showing good early growth even to my untutored eye.

Le Lapin Agile
Le Lapin Agile is a cabaret and was immortalized by Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso and Utrillo among others and is still a favourite with many artists today - talented or otherwise - who sit across the road with open sketch books and busy pencils.

Next stop was Place du Tertre the bustling heart of the Montmartre. Avoid the touts offering to sketch you or cut your silhouhette in card. Have a wander and take in the atmosphere, and if you can afford a coffee, sit and watch the fascinating scene.


One of countless stalls in Place du Tertre

Artist touting for business

A captive poser

The original bistro

Maurice Utrillo did better using a different media
With Montmartre getting busier and busier and the day getting hotter and hotter, I walked back down to Chateau Rouge metro through the throngs of tourists visiting the Sacre Coeur.  Having visited many times before, I continued on my way - only stopping to take some photographs.


The clear blue sky cloaks the dome of the Sacre Coeur



Looking back to the Sacre Coeur from the top of Rue Maurice Utrillo

It was about lunch time and I was looking to find a recommended restaurant called L'Astier at 44, Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud over in the 11th arrondissement. I took the metro to Goncourt and walked to what had been described as a good value budget restaurant. Not my budget I am afraid and a short walk along Ave de la République brought me to Cave Les Babines - an epicerie and wine merchants. I took a table out in the sun and I decided on une assiette mix (cheeses and charcuterie) plus a glass of red wine for 8€ and it was lovely. So lovely in fact that, I decided on another two glasses of wine.

It was really warm by now and to finish off a lovely day I jumped on the metro at Place de la République and made my way to Les Jardin des Tuileries between Place de la Concorde and Le Louvre. I chose a spot by the fountains away from the river. Grabbing two chairs - one a recliner and the other an upright, I settled back for an hour or so on the former while propping my feet up on the latter, and was content to watch the world go by.

Looking over to the posh apartments on Rue de Rivoli

A view along the Grande Allée in the direction of the Louvre

A short metro ride and I was in Etienne Marcel and having a half pint of Caledonian 80/- (4€) in The Thistle on Rue St Denis. Needless to say that was all I had and soon returned to rue Doudeauville and Au Gamin de Paris for a wee pression or two in the sun before bed.

Monday 16th May 2011 - Off Tae Paris

After a few last minute things - like buying some travel toiletries and some euros - and it was a quick train ride into Glasgow Central, getting breakfast and then the train to Prestwick International Airport. The flight left a little late but, Ryanair being Ryanair, we arrived ahead of schedule at Beauvais - my least favourite airport. I had decided to try another method of travel to Paris rather than the shuttle to Porte Maillot. This would leave me with a crosstown metro ride to the 18th and this, and the fact that it is a bit of a cattle truck, put me off. I was going to get the Beauvais downtown bus (Ligne 12) to the Gare SNCF in Beauvais - it only costs 90 cents - and from there catch the train to Gare du Nord. It was a bit of a rush making the connection but the train was a far more comfortable and relaxing way of travel and the view from upstairs added to the pleasant journey.

It was only a ten minute walk from Gare du Nord to my sister Liz's place on Rue Doudeauville. After quickly dumping my gear it was down all five flights and across the road to Au Gamin de Paris where I had a late meal and some wine before retiring for the night.